Description

Immediate dispatch from Somerset. Nice older book in good condition. Pages in good condition. No notes or highlighting. Some light marking due to age. Best copy of these books I have seen. See images. Fantastic book.

About the book >.>.> The periodic nature of the motion of water in ocean waves suggests the possi- bility of a simple mathematical treatment. The observed fact that the particles of water in a wave have very little translatory movement leads to the conclusion that their motion may be either a linear vertical oscillation or travel in a closed path such as a circle. The former hypothesis is untenable because it would involve the formation of voids at the bottom of the ocean under wave crests and compression of the water in the wave hollows. It appears probable that the particles in a wave ro- tate in elliptical or circular orbits the plane of which is vertical and perpendicular to the line of wave crests. (OS)